2022 ha devuelto a la industria del lujo a cifras similares a las previas a la pandemia, con una tendencia de crecimiento que ya se vivió en 2021 en cifras con dos dígitos. Lo que demuestra que este segmento de mercado sufre como todos, pero siempre experimenta recuperaciones más rápidas que el resto. Aunque la procesión va por barrios o en este caso por países.
Un reciente viaje por los terriotrios de Oriente Próximo y la apertura en días pasados de la nueva boutique de nuestros amigos de ST Dupont en Lisboa, por cierto, espectacular y que merece una visita si estáis por la capital lusa nos puso sobre la senda de algunas tendencias que estamos viendo en el mundo del lujo.
La verdad es que es difícil hablar de esas tendencias de manera general puesto que no siempre las estadísticas que se publican son válidas, en general porque lo que se hace público recoge una mezcolanza de marcas de diversos sectores que hay que desbrozar y en muchos casos, algunos de esos datos están difundidos por supuestas empresas de análisis que persiguen unos objetivos determinados y no siempre consecuentes con lo que a nosotros nos interesa.
Por otro lado, las grandes compañías del sector tampoco son muy amigas de detallar sus datos de venta, hablan de porcentajes o consolidan con el grupo al que pertenecen para vendernos lo que les interesa, nunca mejor dicho.
Por eso, como siempre, conviene bajar al ruedo y experimentar en primera persona la realidad. En España la situación ha mejorado, pero sigue sin estar boyante. La caída de visitantes, sobre todo asiáticos se siente y mucho en las boutiques. Aunque la recuperación de clientes patrios es importante, no alcanza las cifras del pasado. En sectores como la automoción, donde no cuentan esas ventas a extranjeros, las cifras están muy flojas para las marcas de lujo, aunque aquí debemos decir que la crisis general que afecta al sector por la falta de materiales repercute y mucho.
NUEVAS TENDENCIAS
La crisis del COVID ha afectado especialmente más a unos países que a otros. El cerrajón de China ha permitido que los USA suban de nuevo al primer puesto en ventas de productos o experiencias de lujo. Europa se ha recuperado y la pujanza de Oriente próximo es innegable. En Dubái (UAE), las marcas confiesan que baten récords de ventas y no sólo en cantidad, también allí se venden las piezas más especiales y valiosas de su catálogo.
Una vez más debemos hacer una pausa e insistir que cuando se habla de ventas de lujo, y como explicaba al principio, hay que coger con pinzas cualquier estadística. Muchas marcas premium se cuelan o las cuelan en esos análisis y del mismo modo el lujo de la experiencia, para mí se debería estudiar desde otros parámetros que nada tienen que ver con la de los productos.
Lo que si es cierto es que las marcas de ropa lideran siempre los rankings y a continuación tenemos la marroquinería, por delante de joyas y relojes. No nos olvidemos de la cosmética que crece de manera imparable.
Aunque sigo leyendo por ahí que los Millennials ya tienen un peso importante en el conjunto de los clientes, lo pongo en duda, salvo que la estadística incluya a marcas de moda que para nada considero de lujo. No nos engañemos, aunque hay mucho joven ganando dinero con los negocios digitales o las criptomonedas, no creo que representen una gran masa como nos pintan. Por mi experiencia, y pese a que las marcas se empeñan en lo contrario, quien termina comprando sus productos son las personas de alto poder adquisitivo, logrado tras años de exitosa carrera empresarial o profesional y todas por encima de los 50.
Luego me sigue llamando la atención que se insista en el nuevo paradigma del lujo hablando de valores que realmente, en la práctica no se cumplen. La RSC tiene que hacer su trabajo y contarnos el lado bonito del negocio.
Si es cierto que se hay una mayor personalización en la experiencia de compra, un detalle que considero básico para una marca de lujo. En este sentido es de destacar como en muchos sectores se están cerrando los canales tradicionales para abrir boutiques propias donde garantizar la mejor y exclusiva atención del potencial comprador. Uno de los ganchos son las ediciones especiales sólo disponibles en esos espacios y que capturan el interés de los amantes de la marca.
Aunque ha subido la venta online sigue siendo un porcentaje mínimo respecto a la venta física y lo que sí vemos es como las marcas se afanan en dirigir a los clientes a sus propios espacios digitales. Queda por ver la evolución de este canal con la llegada del metaverso. Personalmente opino que, pasado el boom inicial, las ayudas de realidades virtuales serán decisivas para subliminar la experiencia física, pero desconfío de un universo paralelo de ventas de bienes de lujo.
Si estoy de acuerdo con la necesidad de mejorar la comunicación y el conocimiento de cada cliente a través de la gestión de los datos, pero será imprescindible una gran formación de los equipos comerciales para que aprendan a manejar esas herramientas de conocimiento.
Valoraremos cada vez más las manufacturas locales, y los productos realmente exclusivos con independencia de su precio para asegurar la personalización de los clientes.
Como siempre, el futuro puede ser incierto, pero al mismo tiempo muy excitante. No dejen de sintonizarnos para estar siempre a la última porque lo que desde estas páginas prescribimos, nunca pasa de moda.
Por Javier Arias
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